About a week and a half ago, the Bayram holidays took place. As part of the delicate balancing act that comes with being a majority Muslim country with a secular government, Turkey has invented an interesting scheme to manage religious and national holidays.
For the non-religious holidays like Turkey's Independence (Day of Victory) and the religious ones alike, a Bayram (literally translates to holiday) is declared. The Bayram that just took place was for Eid-al-Adha, the Muslim day of sacrifice. Though this is usually more of a long weekend-type deal, the government declared a 9 day Bayram to try to spark domestic tourism in light of the numerous political and economic situations currently taking place within the country. My host family had planned to go to Greece for this extended Bayram, but, due to the fact that I can't get a residency permit before I start school, I couldn't leave the country. So I stayed with Cansu, a girl my age that went to Italy last year with AFS, and her awesome Aunt, Megü.
I met up with Cansu Tuesday evening and we went shopping and had dinner. I tried Cig köfte, a traditional Turkish dish. It's made of raw meat ground and mixed with paprika, garlic, and onion. Despite my initial hesitation to eat raw meat, it's quite good.
On Wednesday, Cansu introduced me to some of her friends and we spent time wandering around Bostanlı, a lovely part of Izmir that I had yet to explore. Thursday Was Eid-Al-Adha. This is the Muslim holiday that commemorates Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his only son Isaac because god told him to. The story is mentioned in both the Bible and the Qua'ran. Many Muslim families celebrate the holiday by slaughtering a domestic animal. In Izmir, most people use sheep. Each participating family gives a third of the meat to the poor, a third to friends and family, and keeps a third for their own Bayram feast. While Cansu and I did not personally witness the slaughter, we attended the rest of the Bayram festivities. We went to several relatives' houses, and were given an abundance of homemade food, particularly baklava, at each. The holiday provides an opportunity for young people to visit their older relatives and families to spend some time together over delicious food. I was introduced to countless relatives and had numerous chances to practice introducing myself in my broken Turkish. We finished the day stuffed, and proceeded to go to Alsancak, the central district, for more food and a walk along the Kordon.
While at a café, Cansu and her father explained a bit about Turkey's secular government and quest for EU membership to me. While Turkey is overwhelmingly Muslim, it has had explicitly enshrined religious freedom since its beginning as a republic in the 1920s. Following World War I, the Ottoman empire collapsed and an influential leader named Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stepped in. He abolished the Ottoman caliphate, mandated western dress, replaced Islamic law with European-style legal codes, and had every Turkish person take a surname. Although Turkey was in an exceedingly vulnerable position as a new postwar nation, Atatürk did whatever was necessary to ensure a transition to modernity. He was fiercely nationalistic and pushed public unity under a Turkish identity. Though some of his actions were controversial, he succeeded in creating a modern republic. Turkish people revere him for ensuring relative democracy and secularism. There are flags, posters, banners, and lights bearing his likeness throughout Izmir. His signature is famous and appears on bumper stickers and as tattoos. I was recently in a music classroom with three pictures of Atatürk and two of his speeches hanging on the walls.
While Atatürk and secularism are certainly beloved, religion has not been forsaken. Cansu's father, who had slaughtered a sheep that morning, began to tell me about Turkish involvement with Islam. Most of the country is mildly religious. Unkown to many Americans, Muslims believe that their god is the same god that Christians worship. Muslims have many of the same prophets, such as Abraham, and the Bible and Qua'ran share more than a few stories. Muslims regard the Christian Jesus to be a profit. Given the similarities and general respect for Christianity among moderate Muslims, the west's lack of respect for Islam is puzzling for a people that are so far removed from the strict Islamic rulers of the region's past. Much as with Christianity, interpretations and practices of Islam vary depending on the individual believer. Islam, as I have encountered it, is a peaceful and beautiful religion. Turkey is almost uniquely placed to integrate its Islamic and modern cultures. The most perfect example of the prevailing Turkish perspective on religion that I have found is the presence of Atatürk's prayer beads in the museum dedicated to his life. While Atatürk's life contained a religious presence, his religion did not broadly affect his implementation of policy. This attitude is visible throughout all of Turkey. Mosques are in every neighborhood, the call to prayer floats through the city five times a day, and most identify as Muslim. That said, I join the majority of Izmir women in leaving my hair uncovered and wearing whatever I please. While Islam is present, allowing it to greatly affect everyday life is left as a personal choice.
Many Turks, even those who are religious, still identify heavily with the tradition of progressiveness and separation from religion imposed by their country's admired founder. As the government has taken controversial actions, I've met many Turks who openly oppose measures like the religion class in my public school. While it's more of a class on religious history and participation is optional for non-muslims, many resent it. Turkey sought European Union membership a couple of years ago and took measures to comply with EU regulations, but the country was denied entrance. With internal disagreements on the proper nature of religion and government, no way into the EU, and no similar states surrounding it, Turkey's continuing path to modernity is unmarked. The Turks are quite politically active, and I have encountered little apathy. As Cansu and her father explained, Turkey is becoming increasingly polarized contrary to Atatürk's perceived legacy of unification. Elections are set for November 1st, and it's a politically fascinating time to be here. But, as with all indirect political turmoil, daily life goes on. On Friday, Cansu decided to take me to Alaçatı , an adorable village built by the Greeks known for its shops, views, and windmills. We ran around shopping in one of the most picturesque places I think I've ever been.
Many Turks, even those who are religious, still identify heavily with the tradition of progressiveness and separation from religion imposed by their country's admired founder. As the government has taken controversial actions, I've met many Turks who openly oppose measures like the religion class in my public school. While it's more of a class on religious history and participation is optional for non-muslims, many resent it. Turkey sought European Union membership a couple of years ago and took measures to comply with EU regulations, but the country was denied entrance. With internal disagreements on the proper nature of religion and government, no way into the EU, and no similar states surrounding it, Turkey's continuing path to modernity is unmarked. The Turks are quite politically active, and I have encountered little apathy. As Cansu and her father explained, Turkey is becoming increasingly polarized contrary to Atatürk's perceived legacy of unification. Elections are set for November 1st, and it's a politically fascinating time to be here. But, as with all indirect political turmoil, daily life goes on. On Friday, Cansu decided to take me to Alaçatı , an adorable village built by the Greeks known for its shops, views, and windmills. We ran around shopping in one of the most picturesque places I think I've ever been.
We finished out the weekend by hanging out with friends Saturday. We saw the scorch trials, complete with Turkish subtitles. My American friend Krista and I were genuinely terrified. Later that night we went to Karşıyaka , a district of Izmir, and went out for waffles. Going out for waffles here is like fro yo in the US. You order a waffle, and it gets topped with four different kinds of chocolate, random sliced fruit, and your favorite childhood candy. We took more pictures, and had a great last weekend of summer before Cansu started school.